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Tuesday, January 1, 2019

A Countdown for the New Year that Didn't Happen in Zhongshan

After finishing my last post of 2018, I headed out to see see what the final moments of 2018 and the first moments of 2019 would bring in Zhongshan. I didn't expect the city would have anything even close to the spectacular New Year's fireworks I saw last year in Taipei, but I figured I could stumble upon something.

As I walked towards the Central Power Plaza, a shopping mall at one end of the popular Sun Wen West Road Pedestrian street, I noticed that both the vehicular and foot traffic was far heavier than usual so late at night. And when I finally arrived at the shopping area, I saw that the Christmas tree there was still up and the large mostly open square was packed with people far more densely than I had ever seen it before.

So I joined the masses. Midnight was mere minutes away, and I asked one couple why so many people had gathered there. They said they had no idea themselves and had similarly joined in hoping to catch whatever there might be to catch.

people gathering to celebrate the first moments of 2019 at Central Power Plaza in Zhongshan, China


I then noticed that a number of people appeared to be video recording a large digital display on a building across the street.

a dark large digital display on a building


Aha . . .

But nothing ever appeared on the display. And soon a small number of people, presumably with the help of their mobile phones, simultaneously counted down from ten to zero.

Nothing happened. After a few moments quite a few people emitted sighs of disappointment. Suddenly, what sounded like fireworks livened things up, but there were no visual signs of them in any direction. After just a few explosions all was back to as it was before, except now people were quickly dispersing.

After milling about a bit, I asked a group of young women if they knew why everybody had gathered. I was luckier this time, and they explained that in past years, including last year, a countdown to the end of the year would appear on the large screen. They had assumed the same would once again happen this year. The one woman said she suspected the government had decided it wasn't safe anymore and had canceled it. I asked her what she thought about the safety issue and she said "Well, I came here. I don't think there's a problem."

Like others, they seemed deflated. So I told them I sort of found the experience exciting. After they asked why, I explained that I had never before experienced anything quite like this on New Year's Eve— everybody tightly packed together anticipating a big countdown and celebration and then . . . mostly nothing, not even the countdown. It was almost surreal. I could now say I certainly had had yet another special experience to bring in a new year.

At least my perspective appeared to amuse them.

So I wished them a happy new year and headed away. I knew the perfect thing to do. I would have my first 2019 drink at a bar I hadn't visited before with a name that seemed to describe much about the past year, including its last moments.

Fittingly for its name, after a long walk I was surprised to find it closed.

The W.T.F. Bar in Zhongshan China


Yet again, somebody felt amused.

Happy New Year!

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