"We Had a Whole World"

70 years ago today, International Holocaust Remembrance Day, Soviet troops liberated Auschwitz-Birkenau, the most deadly Nazi concentration camp.

In the video below, one way to remember the world which existed before the Holocaust:

Children of survivors, we don't have any artifacts. We don't have photographs. We don't have family heirlooms. They call us the second generation, which, if you think about it, it means our parents are the first generation and nothing existed before us. And it's not true. We had a whole history. We had a whole world. And my grandfather is just one person in that world, but he existed before the war.

And I found him.

Apple Gets Artsy in Chongqing

[Update at end]

Just over a week ago at the Jiefangbei pedestrian shopping area in Chongqing's Yuzhong district, you could see something was curiously hidden.

When I walked by yesterday, I saw this:

The cylindrical entrance for the new Apple Store which will open January 31 is now covered with a copy of a mural — the result of a collaboration by photographer Navid Baraty and artist YangYang Pan (潘阳阳). Apple posted a video about the artistic process on its Chinese retail website (HT MacRumors) and someone Apple has posted it on YouTube as well [link updated].

During the brief time I was there, the mural received a bit of attention from passersby.

For those in Chongqing who can't until Saturday to visit an Apple Store, there is already an option at the North City Paradise Walk shopping mall in Jiangbei district.

The store seemed to have a decent crowd yesterday for a Monday afternoon.

For those who can wait longer than Saturday, soon Chongqing will have the same number of Apple Stores as Hong Kong. A third store is under construction at the MixC shopping mall in Chongqing's Jiulongpo district. Only Beijing and Shanghai currently have more Apple Stores in China with four each. Single stores can be found in other cities in China — Chengdu, Hangzhou, Shenzhen, Wuxi, and Zhengzhou. The stores in Chongqing are indicative both of Apple's focus in China and the city's own impressive growth.




UPDATE: No need to rush to the Jiefangbei Apple Store if you want to see an art-covered cylinder. I walked by again this afternoon, and the outside art is now gone. Perhaps the lit up Apple logo works better under today's darker skies & wetter weather, and the original artwork will be on display inside when the store opens.

A Bear With a Story to Tell

At the Yangjiaping Pedestrian Street in Chongqing's Jiulongpo district

Moving to the Music in Chongqing

And it was time to dance . . .

At Huayu Plaza in Shapingba, Chongqing

Chilling a Chongqing Beer

One night at a slightly upscale restaurant in Chongqing, I ordered the Chongqing Brewery Company's Shancheng Beer 1958 (9.5°), partly because I didn't recall trying it before. Many people in China are content to drink beer at room temperature (whatever that may be), so I made sure to ask for a cold bottle. They didn't have one, and I said a regular bottle was just fine.

Several servers were intent on serving me a cold beer though. After they discovered I was not interested in adding ice to the beer and saw me explore another possibility with the ice now at my table, one server took back the bottle of beer. Despite my insistence that they really didn't need to worry about it, a few minutes later this was at my table:

The restaurant's effort was most appreciated. I don't think a beer that one reviewer described as having the taste of "grainy malts, plastic, cardboard, grassy hops and some light citrusy notes" could ever look better.

Scenes from Chaotianmen in Chongqing

Chaotianmen is at the northeastern tip of Chongqing's Yuzhong district where the Jialing River merges with the Yangtze River. With views of the city which have changed significantly in recent years, it is an especially popular destination for tourists, including those who board boats for cruises. Below are photos which capture some of the people there and what they were doing, in addition to the outdoor karaoke I mentioned before, one afternoon. I share these in part because Chaotianmen itself will undergo significant change — a topic for a later post.

Gate leading from the docks up to Chaotianmen Square

Chaotiamen Square was not exactly full of people.

But people photographing others could be seen.

As could people photographing themselves

Taking in the view was a popular choice.

Some were more occupied with their phones.

Looking down at the tip of Chaotianmen one could see more activity around the steps down to the docks.

Vendors sold a variety of items.

Bikes made out of wire was one option.

Electric bikes were another option.

Bargaining skills could be useful.

Games were also available.

Or you could have your portrait drawn.

Mobile vendors were one source of food.

Other options for outdoor dining could be found as well.

Like the square, some people took in the view.

And others were more focused on their mobile phone.

Few seemed interested in these no-longer-in-use inclined lifts at the docks.

Three-wheeled taxi cars were one way to depart.

Most left by foot on a road along the Yangtze River.

A Hazy Chongqing Evening

Yesterday, I shared a photo taken at sunrise of two buildings in Chongqing. For some imperfect balance, here is a photo taken 16 minutes after sunset on the same day.

The Chongqing World Financial Center (WFC) is easily identifiable in the previous photo. Chongqing's tallest skyscraper also appears, near the center, in the above photo. More buildings in Chongqing's Yuzhong district, the Huanhuayuan Bridge with two trains on it, a giant video screen, and the Jialing River can also be seen. Based on the view, I thought air pollution conditions had significantly improved from the morning, but online figures indicated otherwise.

A Hazy Chongqing Morning

7:49 am, supposedly sunrise, today in Chongqing:

Another Smoggy View in Chongqing

Perhaps I shouldn't have left the previous post, which was about a coat's timely message and Chongqing's temperatures, somewhat hanging with a comment about bad air pollution.

I have mentioned Chongqing's air quality before, and probably will do so again, but, to bring a little more closure to the earlier post, here was a view this afternoon from the SML Central Square shopping mall:

The buildings barely visible in the distance are located across the Yangtze River. I can't say to what degree fog may have played a role in the haze, but, even though Chongqing's air quality improved over previous days, it was definitely bad today.

Maybe someday soon I will see a "Make it Fresh" coat.

Make It Hot

Indeed, Chongqing was a bit chilly today . . .

On another note related to the phrase on the jacket I saw today, this evening I ate at a comfortably toasty restaurant. The temperature was quite a change of pace from the many other colder places I've eaten at recently. I could now write a long post about the common lack of (or use of) heat in more southern regions in China, but I will save that for another day.

On the whole, I am not complaining about the weather here, especially since Chongqing is known as one of China's "three furnaces" for its sweltering summer heat, as I enjoy walking around in cool temperatures. Unfortunately, air pollution has negated some of their pleasant effects.

Activities At Scenic Chaotianmen: Outdoor Karaoke

At the scenic Chaotianmen docks in Chongqing yesterday, I saw two men setting up a portable karaoke system in front of a scene which has changed significantly during the past 6 years.

Elsewhere at the docks, I saw another man showcasing his karaoke offerings as well.

Nearby on the steps, I spoke to two college students visiting from Xi'an, China, wearing newly purchased flower headbands.

When I later walked by the same area again, the students were the first paying customers I saw at the temporary karaoke stations.

For singing two songs, they paid 10 RMB (about US $1.60).

Activity at the outdoor karaoke stations may have picked in the evening when people come for river cruises to take in more of the city's rapidly evolving skyline lit up at night.

Dramatic Change in Chongqing

A scene I saw today captures some key aspects of what has and has not changed in Chongqing, China, between my first visit here in 2009 and my return six years later.

In January, 2009, when I visited the docks at Chaotianmen I took a photo of the nearly-completed Chongqing Grand Theatre across the Jialing River.

Today I took a photo of the now open Chongqing Grand Theatre from a similar location.

The photos show how Chongqing's reputation for its fog and smog, both likely playing a role today based on weather and pollution reports, has been long standing and well deserved. They also both show some of the many boats popular with tourists.

But the differences between the two photos are even more striking to me. Not only are numerous new tall buildings readily apparent in the 2015 photo, but a portion of a new double-decker bridge crossing the Jialing River with levels for cars and trains can be seen as well. And if you look closely at an enlarged version of the 2009 photo (click it), you may be able to spot the cable car, now no longer in existence, crossing the river.

Most incredible, what is captured in these photos represents only a small portion of the change I have noticed in Chongqing. More to come on this theme.